February 15-20, 2024
Pronounced "Wa-LA-la" by the locals - this is a hidden gem...one of those magical places we all note - one that simply stays with you in spirit. Gualala is a former logging town, full of all the vibes a true beach vacation embodies. The name is derived from the Kashaya Pomo Indian phrase that translates to "where the water flows down" - and that's what happens here when the Gualala River meets the sea near the center of town.
Fish Rock Beach is one of the most incredible and dramatic spots either of us has ever visited. Craggy patterned cliffs, wild unpredictable surf, insane sunsets, interesting rock formations, tide pools, shorebirds and driftwood beaches...different sights every damn minute. A STUNNING hot mess. Apparently, the scenery completely changes in the temperate and warmer spring and summer seasons. The thousands of rocks dotting the beach in winter are entirely blanketed with sand...serving as an ideal destination for picnics, walking, swimming and more.
The incredible Anchor Bay Campground (in Gualala) at Fish Rock Beach is just off S Hwy 1 - we straddled in at 5pm closing time and were greeted with such open arms by Tracy. Yes, there are a few people who love what they do - she's one of them. She and her mate Chris manage the place - they take it very seriously and they do it well. We parked 20 feet from the water (with a view) in a small parking lot lot that's protected on both sides by enormous cliffs and tall, awe-inspiring redwood trees.
Our site (33) for the first night was perfect. Insane waves, sound of crashing surf and rolling rocks, and a gorgeous sunset - not to mention rainbow sightings and scatterings of the most colorful abalone shell pieces (dotted among rocky hidden cove spots). I started a little collection - these jewels are not generally found along SoCal beaches.
During a short rain break, we hiked the damp five-minute, forested trail that branches up from the side of the campground to the highway and into the small Anchor Bay town area. There's the Anchor Bay Store (general mercantile store that covers simple shopping needs), a few businesses and Anchor Bay Thai Kitchen restaurant - locals swear by it - we'll catch it the next time we're in town.
We met a few nice people/fellow travelers - some own slots at at this campground, others were just visiting. One gentleman (Mike) offered to take us to Point Arena (approximately a 10 mile drive) for dinner by the pier. He and his friend Glenn picked us up and we shared drinks & tasty food at a cool spot called Pier Place - totally friendly oceanfront establishment with a great view of the pier (even though it was rainy). We feasted and chatted over calamari, grilled fish tacos and chicken chimichuri...fun eve!
About three miles away in the main town of Gualala - the Sundstrom Shopping Center area has two larger grocery stores and other necessary town amenities, a few restaurants, real estate offices, post office, etc. We took a drive back there to load up on some items, prepping for the rough rainy days that were forecasted. Visitors can also explore nearby Gualala Point Regional Park.
The odd thing about this town is that our days were spent there during a very heavy rainstorm - one of many we've experienced on this journey. But, we didn't mind - in fact, we embraced it. This is a remote destination and it still has remnants of a bygone era. A historic 1903 hotel and fresh fish sold along the road. The Cypress Village building (town center) houses a few boutiques and galleries and apparently, an active creative community flocks to the Gualala Arts Center.
We stayed at the campground for four nights (others just stopped in for a night or two), cooked and ate our meals in Max (see Lion's Mane burger photo below) breathed fresh salt air, beach combed, better adapted to this new RV life and had the opportunity to visit an incredible property for sale nearby! On our way out of town, after packing and dumping the black & gray tanks, we even met with a local real estate agent and toured some land we found in our research.
The property we visited was magical - redwood forest, one mile from the ocean, in a charming town, with a "banana belt" microclimate. Joel and I know what we're seeking and this is a serious contender - if nothing else, it sets the early standard for our forever home search. We said our goodbyes and continued our trip.
Off to take a quick, but more detailed look at Point Arena!
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